Frequently Asked Questions

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Duraclutch Frequently Asked Questions

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DURACLUTCH is available for almost all Polaris GENERAL, RANGER, SPORTSMAN and RZR, as well as Bobcat and Gravely gas and Diesel models.

For the most up to date list, please browse our Duraclutch Selection Tool.

On 800 RANGERS the engine and transmission are mounted separate from each other in the chassis. The engine is rubber mounted and transmission is mounted solid to the frame The purpose of the torque stop is to hold the engine from pulling back in the rubber mounts when under load especially when accelerating or engine braking. The torque stop holds the belt center distance maintaining belt tension and keeping the belt from slipping. The torque stop also improves vehicle performance and improves the effectiveness of engine braking.

On the RANGER 900, RANGER DIESELS and RZRS the engine and transmission are mounted together as an assembly and the assembly is rubber mounted in the frame. The engine cannot torque back under load shortening the belt center distance. A torque stop is not needed.

Yes. Find your kit on our Duralutch Kit selection tool and the instructions are on the page for the kit. You can also search the website from the search box at the top of the page with your Duraclutch part number. That part number should be 15-xxx, as in 15-500, for example.

There are more moving components in the Duraclutch because of the internal clutch packs. These components will tend to make noise especially at idle prior to engagement. When the clutch packs engage this noise recedes. Also, the clutch pack housing damps the noise considerably. Many people start the engage after installation of the Duraclutch prior to putting the clutch housing cover back on. In this case the clutch will sound rattily. Under no circumstance should throttle be applied to run the engine RPM up or move the vehicle without the clutch housing cover in place.

Yes, however Duraclutch/SVI will not warranty the Duraclutch on applications for which we have not done the set up and tuning. This is not to say the Duraclutch will not work with these applications, but we have no control in the set up and therefore cannot take responsibility.  There are certainly people who have great experience with rubber belt CVTs and we are happy to work with them on special applications.

Depending on the use and maintenance they should last 5,000-10,000 or longer. We’ve had several Duraclutch customers with 15,000+ miles.

Generally this is indicated by slipping with the engine revving. If this is caught right away the primary will not be damaged and the clutch packs can be replaced. If continued running takes place the internal clutch pack drums could be damaged and the primary will need to be replaced. This is analogous to continuing to run after the brake pads are worn out on your car. If you continue to do so the brake discs or brake drums will be damaged.

Unless there is malfunction we would not inspect the Duraclutch for 5000 miles under hard use and 10,000 miles under normal use. At that time the clutch housing cover should be removed and the clutch inspected. Belt dust can be blown out with an air hose. Examine the primary for flat spots on the shift weights and excess clearance in the spider buttons. If these conditions are noticed the primary should be removed and examined more closely. Examine the secondary on the front side for worn rollers and remove it and examine for worn shaft on the back side. Remove and examine the belt for excess wear. If more than 1/16″ narrower than a new belt, replace.

SVI products are designed for and approved for use with a designated Polaris vehicle and do not void the Polaris vehicle warranty. Warranty of SVI components and up-fits is by SVI. Warranty of the Polaris vehicles is by Polaris. If an SVI component fails and causes failure of a Polaris component it is imperative that SVI be contacted first.

The Duraclutch belt is continuously in contact with the primary
sheaves even when the clutch goes into neutral. Engine braking is through the sheaves to the one way bearings inside the sheaves and is always positively active. The Polaris engine braking is through the one way bearing at the bottom of the clutch when the sheaves disengage from the belt.

Duraclutch engine braking is designed to be slightly aggressive in LO and “felt” in HI. This generally works well for all around use. The engine braking is designed so the wheels will keep turning when descending a hill so the vehicle is controllable. If the wheels stop turning the vehicle will become hard to control. This requires driver technique as well. For example, if descending a steep hill vehicle control may be improved by using HI gear and slightly tapping the brakes while descending. WARNING! Do not attempt to drive on hills steeper than your driving ability. Vehicle loading and towing loads greatly affects the controllability of the vehicle.

You’ll get a Drive Clutch, sometimes call the Primary, and a Driven Clutch, sometimes called the Secondary, both ready to install. You also get a new belt. If the belt blows in less than 5,000 miles, or one year we will replace it – free. On DURACLUTCHES for the RANGER 800 you will also get a Torque Stop.

Belts blow from getting hot which damages the belt rubber compound and cord structure. A belt may not blow immediately after being “ burned” or overheated but will usually blow prematurely after a burning or overheating event occurs. On the standard clutch the belt is disengaged when the vehicle is not moving. When starting out the drive clutch sheaves engage on the belt performing the clutch function. The belt may be “burned” or subjected to excessive heat if starting out in HI gear with a load or on a hill.

With the DURACLUTCH the drive clutch sheaves are always engaged on the belt and the belt is always tight even when the vehicle is not moving. The clutch function occurs not on the belt but in the 2 clutch packs in the drive clutch – one clutch pack in each sheave. This reduces the heat generated at the belt sheave interface and significantly improves belt life.

Yes, engine braking and smooth engagement.
Because the belt is always tight the engine braking is very effective. The DURACLUTCH engine braking will help maintain control on steep downhill slopes even when the vehicle is fully loaded. Because the belt is always engaged and tight the back drive cam in the Driven Clutch can be tuned to give enhanced engine braking function.

Since the clutch function occurs in the clutch packs in the drive clutch and not on the belt, engagement is very smooth and not jerky. The clutch pack shoes are designed to provide silky smooth engagement and provide long life. The materials are designed and tested specifically for this purpose.

No the same, no more than a stock clutch. One thing to note:
engagement takes place in the internal clutch packs not on the belt/sheave interface. The heat generated is the same but the clutch packs are designed to take this heat. The belt will not take the heat and burn if starting out in HI when the vehicle should be in LO.

What we call a “clutch” on these types of vehicles is really a Constant Velocity Transmission (CVT) which has an initial clutch (engagement) function and thereafter is a CVT. The Duraclutch separates the clutch function from the CVT function. In the Duraclutch the clutch function
occurs in the internal clutch packs not on the belt/sheave interface. Larger tires effectively gear the vehicle higher. The “proper” solution would be to lower internal gearing in the transaxle to bring the overall vehicle back to the original gearing. For example, race car drivers do this routinely in the rear end of their cars. They don’t change out the transmission. With a conventional stock clutch and aftermarket clutch, when customers put on larger tires they are essentially now starting out in 2nd gear. Conventional clutches are “tuned” to try and overcome this by raising the engagement PRM and increasing the low ratio belt pinch. This can work to a point but you can’t compensate completely. The tradeoffs are belt burning and jerky starts.

People tend to believe these clutch tunings are sportier because they feel greater pull in their arms. They equate this to increased performance. However in a drag race the Duraclutch will usually win. When drag racing you win by easing into starting as aggressively as you can without breaking tires loose or slipping the belt. This is what Duraclutch does in the internal clutch packs automatically.

Some Duraclutch models use standard Polaris belts and some use SVI/Duraclutch belts. It is critically important that the proper belt be installed with a Duraclutch. Also, those that use a Polaris belt don’t necessarily use the original equipment belt. There is a decal on the clutch housing that gives the SVI/Duraclutch or Polaris part number.

As the belt wears it gets narrower. A too narrow belt will be indicated by slipping or loss of top speed. I would consider examining a belt at 5,000 miles in hard use and 10,000 miles in normal use. More than 10,000 miles on a Duraclutch is not abnormal.

Many Polaris vehicles use a secondary design that will not work with the Duraclutch primary due to the way the primary works for the engine
braking. For engine braking to work well the primary and secondary must be tuned to work together (including for other SVT functions). On Polaris vehicles that have engine braking the secondary is tuned for the Polaris primary. Likewise, the Duraclutch secondary is tuned for its primary. The Duraclutch primary and secondary work together differently because the belt is continuously engaged in the primary and engine braking works through the sheaves as compared to the one way bearing on the bottom of the Polaris primary. The Duraclutch engine braking is so positive you can put the transmission in gear and pull the vehicle to start the engine.

Place the gear selector in HI when driving on hard packed trails and LO when driving off road, hauling loads, and towing. For slow technical driving in mud, rocks and tight trails LO must be used. If you smell the clutch packs, shift to LO immediately. If you put the gear selector in HI when you should be in LO the clutch packs will slip saving the belt and give off a brake pad smell when they get hot. This is a signal to shift to LO gear. This is not the belt burning. This will not hurt the clutch packs if done occasionally. However, if this is done frequently the clutch packs will wear out prematurely. If you do this continually this is abuse and the clutch packs will burn out.

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